Vert-à-Go

Finding food that’s good for you in Saskatoon and beyond

 

Posts Tagged ‘factory farming’

Ask Vert-à-Go: Where can I find…naturally-raised pork?

Do you know where I could find pork products that are natural…from happy pigs, etc?”

- Rachel, Saskatoon

I am not a fan of the way most pigs are treated to provide grocery stores with quantities of pork. Permanently confined in a windowless smelly building on hard bare floors in cramped conditions, large-scale pig barns certainly do not allow pigs to express their “pigness”, as Joel Salatin would say. It is a cruel way to raise these animals, who would spend their time foraging and rooting if left to their own devices. I also found, when I used to buy it years ago, that grocery store pork often had a nasty backtaste to it–to me, it sometimes smelled (and seemed to taste) like a pig barn! I now buy my pork from Pine View Farms. It has a wonderful flavour with none of that taste. They don’t raise the pigs themselves on their own farm, but sub-contract out to another farmer near Hague, who raises them in small numbers on straw:

“Our hogs are raised according our All Natural protocol. No antibiotics, growth hormones or animal byproducts are fed or administered. We do not use gestation crates, sows roam free and farrow in birthing pens on straw. The feeder pigs can roam around outside and root in deep straw to satisfy their natural instincts.” –Pine View Farms web site

We usually buy a side of pork from them at a time, but there are a number of retailers in town who sell their products. Steep Hill Co-op usually has chops, bacon, and ground pork. Their bacon and chops are available at Dad’s Nutrition Centre, as well as their mild Italian and chorizo sausage. Greystone and Attridge Co-ops also stock Pine View pork (cuts will vary). It is cheaper to buy directly from Pine View Farms, however. You can go out to the farm store, or they will also deliver to your house for a flat fee of $18/order. I have combined an order for friends in the past, which saves on time and gas for everybody.

There will soon be another option for pork raised to ‘beyond organic’ standards in the Saskatoon area: Lori Walldner, a former organic producer of pastured livestock, is now marketing a variety of food products by organic fellow-farmers ranging from meat and eggs to grains and (coming this summer) vegetables. She expects to have pork available in March–I’ll post again on her other products when I have more information (I’m also double-checking a longer list of Saskatchewan producers and suppliers and will add it when it’s done).

Naturally and/or organically-raised pork (Saskatoon area)

Pine View Farms ph: (306) 239-4763

Lori Walldner ph:(306) 955-8402

Talking turkey at Christmas

photo by Speshul Ted

With only 13 days to go, most of the turkeys destined for the Christmas dinner table have already been dispatched and are in the freezer (or have been presold as fresh and will be butchered a few days before the 25th). Their time on earth is done–but you can help ensure that future turkeys will enjoy a better quality of life by buying a bird that was raised in a humane fashion this Christmas.

Just as with other factory farm-produced livestock, turkeys generally suffer crowded and extremely unpleasant living conditions. Most will have no more than 2sq feet of standing room, and they are usually kept in virtual darkness to reduce aggression. Turkeys are debeaked to reduce cannibalism caused by crowded quarters or improper food rations, but also often have their snoods (the upper part of the wattle that lies across the beak) removed, which is an extremely painful procedure. Despite this, pecking is still a problem and many are blinded. Their litter is often not changed during their time in the barns, and because they do not scratch like chickens do, it quickly becomes fouled and can cause respiratory problems and foot ulcerations. These ulcers often result in lameness, which is further exacerbated because they have been bred and fed to grow so quickly that their immature joints and muscles cannot support their own weight. Slaughter conditions are also usually far from ideal. For more information, see the Canadian Coalition for Farm Animals turkey factsheet.

So how can you help? Try taking the Turkey Challenge–buy a turkey that has been raised organically (or naturally), and that has had as much time free-range as possible. This year, I got our turkey from Mason’s Family Farm near Kenaston. Their main emphasis is still their fantastic U-cut Christmas trees, but they have started selling a few locally-produced food products too (including Petrofka Bridge Orchard’s yummy apple cider and sour cherry chocolates). Their frozen turkeys, which are $3/lb and weigh in at about 16-20lbs, were raised for them by neighbours and enjoyed a lot of time outdoors as well as a nicely varied diet (they particularly liked sprouts and watermelon!). Supplies are limited, so call (306-544-2734) or email Bob or Cora to check availability before you head out.

Pine View Farms has already pre-sold all of its fresh farm-gate turkeys, but will be providing Prairie Meats, the Co-Op, Dad’s Nutrition Centre, and Bulk Cheese Warehouse with frozen birds (you may want to call ahead to check when and what is available).

Steep Hill Co-Op also passed along details of a woman who is selling organic turkeys for $50–call Crystal on 306-246-2100.

Please let me know if you know of any other sources!

Leftovers challenge: a cut-up whole chicken

After a couple of unpleasant experiences with having store-bought hamburger recalled because of possible E. coli contamination, I switched to buying free-range or naturally-raised meat. I was unhappy with the idea of animals being raised on factory farms, and was very pleased to find that the quality of meat produced more humanely was much closer to what I had enjoyed on our small family farm while growing up.

One consequence of this switch is that I now buy a lot fewer pre-cut chicken pieces, and generally get whole chickens instead. Although you can buy frozen chicken breasts from free-range farms, and they are certainly handy for quick meal, I find that their very convenience tends to make me a less thoughtful meat consumer. It is just too easy for me to pull them out of the freezer rather than take the time to think of a vegetarian alternative. We have become so accustomed in the west to casually consuming the most premium parts of an animal on a regular basis–bacon, ham, chicken breasts, steak–that we seem to forget that animals aren’t comprised solely of these parts. If, as in the old days, you only butchered one pig for your large family per year, you certainly wouldn’t be sitting down for bacon for breakfast and ham sandwiches for lunch every day. These things were a treat, not an everyday indulgence.

In fact, I think the rise of factory farms over the past few decades is in large part due to the commoditisation of this premium meat. The vast majority of people can’t afford to eat top-quality cuts of humanely-produced meat every day, so a farming system emerged that could churn out huge quantities of meat at low prices. People became accustomed to to this cheap availability and grew to expect it. But unfortunately, this bargain at the grocery and fast-food till could only be achieved at an appalling cost to animal welfare and the environment. Buying a whole chicken really helps me to remember that 1 chicken=1 breast, and I prize the breast meat much more highly on the much fewer occasions that I do eat it.

Furthermore…I also must admit that I really balk at the price of pre-packaged chicken breasts. When you can buy a whole chicken for $15 or less, it seems extravagant to spend $10 on a few little pieces. I’m just too cheap! Taking the time to cut up a whole chicken into pieces will save you a LOT of money, especially if you’re buying free-range or organic meat.

If you don’t know how to cut up a whole chicken, you can find simple illustrated instructions here. The other night I cut one up and used the breast meat for a lovely chicken balti. I gave the thigh pieces to a friend to use, and was then left with the scraps of the carcass, two drumsticks, and a couple of wings. These would be hard to divide up between four people for another meal, and trying to rescue the meat off the raw wings and neck is would be time-consuming and somewhat unappetising. I tend to think that if you’re too squeamish to handle meat in its original format, you probably shouldn’t be eating it in the first place–but I don’t have much desire to chow down on a recognisable chicken neck! So I decided to make chicken soup out of the remains instead, which would create at least two meals. Soup makes every part of the chicken palatable and very easy to deal with, and allows me not to waste a single bite of meat–an extremely important consideration if you want to reduce its considerable carbon impact.

The first step was to make the stock. I find that right after supper is a good time to make stock. That way it can simmer all evening and be all ready to go the next day with the least amount of effort and hanging around. This recipe looks long, but it really takes very little fuss. I will point out that you will only get really good results with a free-range bird. A factory-farmed chicken just will not make very tasty stock.

Easy peasy chicken stock
  • 1 chicken carcass, either raw soon after cutting it up, or frozen if you didn’t have time to deal with it straight away (reserve the drumsticks, wings, and neck for the soup and cook separately so they don’t get overcooked–see below). You could also use the remains of a leftover roast chicken. I will sometimes put two in the pot at a time to intensify the flavour.
  • 2 carrots, broken into a few pieces
  • 2 celery sticks, including the leaves (make the celery organic if at all possible–conventionally grown celery is treated with about 29 chemicals and has no protective skin), snapped into a few pieces
  • 2 parsnips, broken into a few pieces (if you have them)
  • 1 onion, cut into quarters
  • 8 whole peppercorns
  • bay leaf
  • fresh herbs for a bouquet garni (a bundle of fresh herbs tied with string)–because it is autumn, I had none on hand, so threw in some dried parsley (from the garden) instead
Throw the chicken carcass into the pot (frozen is ok), along with the vegetables and herbs. Cover with water (I pretty much fill my big Dutch oven–over 10 cups). If you’ve cleverly been saving the cooking water from your vegetables (except potatoes) and freezing it, use that. It will intensify the flavour of the stock even more!

Bring to a boil and then reduce to a very low simmer for 3-4 hours, occasionally skimming off any foam and removing any pieces of skin that come to the surface. At the end, strain it with your colander and then once more through a fine wire sieve.

You’re now left with the stock. Leave it at room temperature until cool (don’t put it in the fridge warm–that will reduce the overall temperature of the fridge and bad organisms could start to grow in the stock before it gets a chance to cool off. If it’s winter, you could set it outside with a tea towel over top of it to speed things along). Place it in the fridge for 2 hours or overnight. The fat will rise to the top and congeal–just lift it off and dispose of it.

Voila! You now have about 10 cups of delectable chicken stock a million times superior to anything you could buy in the store, and which cost virtually nothing to make. You can use it all for a big batch of soup, or freeze into smaller portions (some people use ice cube trays, but I like having 2-cup and 4-cup containers on hand). And don’t panic if it has solidified into a jelly-like consistency. That’s what real chicken stock is supposed to do! Note: this recipe contains no salt, so you will need to add salt when you cook with it.

I used the whole batch of stock to make this soup, which is mostly drawn from this excellent Chatelaine recipe for a slow-cooker soup. The main difference is that instead of using a pack of chicken thighs or an entire chicken cut into pieces, I just used a few pieces (don’t forget the neck!). I thought that was plenty enough meat. I also only used one leek. They’re delicious, but very expensive, and there was no way I was buying three, as the recipe recommends! You could also economise and use an onion instead, but the leek does add a very nice flavour if you want to splurge.
A Frugal French Country Chicken Soup
  • 10 cups homemade chicken stock (2L)
  • leftover chicken pieces (drumsticks, wings, and neck)–about 1-1/2 cups cooked
  • 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 2 tsp dried tarragon (my neighbour gave me some from her garden)
  • 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp white pepper (must be white!)
  • 6 baby potatoes or an equivalent of larger ones (our garden)
  • 4 carrots (our garden)
  • 2 celery stalks (organic)
  • 1 leek (Saskatoon Farmers’ Market)
  • 6 mushrooms (not necessary but I had them left in the fridge)
  • salt to taste

Gently simmer the chicken pieces in a few cups of water until the meat comes easily off the bones (about half an hour). Lift out the chicken and set aside to cool. Pour the 10 cups of stock into the soup pot and whisk in the Dijon mustard and herbs/seasonings. Separate the meat from the skin and bones, shred the meat and add to the pot. Cut the potatoes, carrots, and celery into thick chunky pieces and add to the pot. Chop off the tough dark-green tops of the leeks, then slice them in half (or quarters, depending its size). Rinse well. Slice thickly and add to the pot. If it looks like you need more liquid, add the chicken cooking water (leftover frozen vegetable cooking water would be great here too).

Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer until the vegetables are tender (about 15-20 minutes). Season to taste and serve with some wonderful bread and butter. Cover and refrigerate for 3 days, or freeze the leftovers for up to 3 months.

Serves 6 (or 3 twice)

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